Last updated on July 4th, 2026
Featured image: Hot air balloons in Cappadocia, over Göreme | Photo by Jennifer Bain
Overcoming my imagination to float above fairy chimneys in Türkiye
by Jennifer Bain
Sunrise is looming as we fret about whether it is too cloudy for the Turkish government to grant permission for hot air balloons to soar above Cappadocia’s fabled fairy chimney rock formations. When the skies clear and approval finally comes around 5:20 a.m., there is sweet relief and then a flurry of action at the staging area.
Pilots and ground crew dash over to multi-coloured balloons attached to wicker baskets lying on their sides. They use engine-driven fans to pump cold air into the deflated “envelopes” and then propane burners to blast in hot air.
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As our red and grey beauty takes shape and rights itself, we are invited to climb into the wicker baskets. Sixteen of us are divided among four compartments and get briefed on how to land in high winds by crouching, clutching rope handles and leaning against the back of the basket to absorb the impact.
“Everything is okay?” asks Pilot Ümit Ertosun. “All ready. Let’s go. Enjoy your flight, everybody.” Minutes later, he announces we are already at 900 metres and I exhale.
The desire to fly is supposedly universal, but while I’m a travel writer who happily took 81 commercial flights (plus one helicopter ride) last year, I have a healthy fear of airborne adventures like skydiving, ziplining and hot air ballooning.
Heights don’t frighten me. Human error does, and a vivid imagination doesn’t help.
For my long-awaited first trip to Türkiye, I divide my time between the under-the-radar, mountainous, tea-growing Eastern Black Sea region near the Turkish-Georgian border and the world-famous, semi-arid Cappadocia region.
An early birthday gift
Not ballooning in the place that has become synonymous with hot air ballooning appealed to this contrarian. Perhaps I’d climb to the “Sunset and Sunrise/Balloon Viewpoint” at dawn to enjoy the hoopla. Or I’d watch in my PJs from the comfort of my cave hotel roof in the laidback tourist town of Göreme.
But then an inexplicable urge to do things that scare me takes hold, so I book a balloon ride as an early 59th birthday gift to myself.
“One, two, three — smile,” says Ertosun halfway through our hour-long flight as he pulls out an Insta360 X5 and shot panoramic photos and videos.
It’s impossible to describe the cacophonous whooshing sounds that balloons make as burner blasts heat the air that keeps them afloat. It’s far easier to wax poetic about floating over fairy chimneys — the otherworldly, eroded rock spires that we Canadians call hoodoos.
Watching 90-odd balloons jockey for space in the sky was unnerving, so I was grateful that Ertosun kept us away from the madding crowd, navigating to a hill and then flying low enough over the astounding landscape to scrape the brittle tops of bushes.
The hour went by in a glorious flash without even a split second of fear.
How to pick a reputable hot air balloon company
Plenty has been written about what you’ll see while ballooning, but it’s harder to get intel on how to pick a reputable company.
First, I cross-referenced Lonely Planet Tükiye’s recommendations with the two companies that tourism officials use for media guests. Then I analyzed websites from this shortlist and picked Royal Balloon because it had pilot bios, detailed its 18-balloon fleet, touted safety and luxury, had a great FAQ section and provided quick and clear responses to information requests.
This wasn’t the time to cheap out. As a fellow ballooner put it: “You can’t take it with you.”
I dropped 280 Euros for a Royal Queen Plus Flight with 16 passengers — cheaper than the Royal King option for 12 and pricier than the Royal Queen one for 24. Knowing these bucket list rides only happen at sunrise and are frequently scuttled by weather, I paid an extra 50 Euros for the “Gold add-on” to automatically be scheduled for the next morning’s flight if my first attempt was cancelled.
My inner control freak admires how tightly Türkiye’s hot air balloon industry is controlled. Unlike countries that let pilots call the shots, the Turkish Civil Aviation Authority assesses daily wind speeds, visibility and pressure systems and decides whether it’s safe enough to launch in each region.
“Meteorological conditions have been considered unsuitable for flight for the set margin of time,” they report online with red flag icons on “unflightable” days.
“Meteorological conditions have been considered suitable for flight for the set margin of time,” they report with green flags when the stars align.
The experience starts before sunrise
My balloon experience starts at the rather ungodly hour of 4:05 a.m. That’s when I am whisked from my hotel to Royal Balloon headquarters, which holds the quirky distinction of being the Honorary Consulate of Romania, apparently because of the Turkish founder’s ties with this important trade partner.
Skipping Turkish tea and a continental breakfast so my weak bladder won’t ruin the flight, I take my place at table two with the other 15 people bound for balloon TC-BRZ. Around 5 a.m., we take minibus two to the staging area to await word on whether it is a flightable or unflightable day.
Roughly 90 balloons get to fill the spring sky that chilly May morning, slightly below the daily limit of 104 on the “first flight” that usually begins before sunrise, and the 52 that can start soon after for a total of 156.
My assigned spot is in the coveted corner of the outer edge of a basket compartment. But when three friends ask me to move so they can get better selfies, I wind up happily positioned under the burner where I can stay warm and watch the pilot fiddle with his altimeter, variometer, compass and temperature gauge.
Humming the 1983 hit “99 Luftballons” (an anti-war anthem about 99 red balloons) by German pop singer Nena, I try to stay in the moment instead of fantasizing about splurging on a second ride. It is quiet in Göreme that week — apparently due to airspace closures keeping Asian and Arab tourists away — and balloon rides are going for as low as 115 Euros.
I learn that balloons fly better in cooler weather and just after dawn when there is less wind. They rise thanks to heated air, and go down when the air cools or is let out. They go where the wind takes them, but pilots can seek higher or lower altitudes to “sail” on wind currents.
Floating back to earth on a feather
My trusty pilot deftly manoeuvres us towards a field where chase crews wait to help with the landing. The wind is so low — barely four knots or seven kilometres/hour — that we get to stay standing instead of crouching to brace for impact.
It sounds corny, but I imagined we were floating back to Earth on a feather.
“Ready?” our pilot asks once we climb out of the basket and are handed Champagne glasses. “One, two, three. Cheers everybody.”
“Cheers — thank you,” we shout back, sipping Turkish sparkling wine.
By 7:30 a.m., I am crawling back into bed, sporting a commemorative gold medallion. Six days later, in another part of Türkiye, I soar across a lush valley in a homemade cable car that feels like a giant bird cage. There’s a natural high that comes with stepping outside of your comfort zone, and I just might start chasing it.
Make a trip to Cappadocia happen
How to get there: Turkish Airlines flies from Istanbul to two airports in the Cappadocia region. Using Göreme as my base, I flew into tiny Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV), which is 45 minutes away. I flew out of the larger and busier Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR), which is 90 minutes away. I also flew Turkish Airlines from Istanbul to Toronto, and my business class upgrade got me a lie-flat seat but also entry into Istanbul’s astounding international Business Lounge to feast at hot food stations where chefs prepared dishes like manti (tiny Turkish meat dumplings smothered in yogurt sauce and spiced butter) and even handed out recipes. The airline is a Star Alliance partner, but be sure to enroll in its Miles&Smiles loyalty program. Check for flights here!
How to get around: Your hotel can arrange airport transfers, which currently cost 10 to 15 Euros per seat in a minibus. It’s easy to walk or take taxis around Göreme, and join excursions with hotel pickups, so car rentals aren’t necessary.
Money: Türkiye uses the Turkish Lira (TRY), but people in Cappadocia embrace the Euro and often list prices in both currencies. Credit cards are widely accepted and ATMs are plentiful, but always carry cash for gratuities, small items and emergencies.
Best time to visit: Spring and autumn are touted as the best times for hot air balloons, with steady weather and comfortable daytime temperatures that hover below 22C. In summer, temperatures soar over 30C and accommodations fill up. Winter brings lower prices, a dusting of snow and a higher chance of balloon cancellations.
Where to stay: I adored the family-owned Aydinli Cave Hotel (read my full hotel review here), but you can browse accommodations in Göreme and the Cappadocia region here on Booking.com.
Where to eat/drink: I loved Cafe Safak and Omurca Art Cafe for meals like manti (Turkish dumplings smothered in yogurt and spices), Taste of Mom’s for gözleme (stuffed flatbreads) and King’s Coffee for dessert and drinks (they have decaf coffee and plant-based milk options).
Gözleme at Taste of Mom’s / Photo by Jennifer Bain
When to book tours: Depending on the season, you’ll have to decide whether to book hot air balloon rides and tours in advance or when you arrive. I booked my balloon ride in advance for my shoulder season trip, but relied on tour recommendations from my hotel once I arrived.
Maps: Your hotel should provide maps of Göreme and the Cappadocia region that outline the popular tour routes. I found a rudimentary Cappadocia Walking Map at one of Göreme’s many travel agencies, but I didn’t hike since trails aren’t well marked.
Fun fact: Turkey officially became the Republic of Türkiye at the UN in 2022. This was to use the Turkish spelling and avoid being associated with an anglicized word linked to foolish people and Thanksgiving poultry.
Travel Advisories: Before leaving home, you should always peruse government travel advisories, like the Government of Canada’s Türkiye Travel Advice, and the U.S. Department of State’s Turkey Travel Advisory.
Zelve Open Air Museum / Photo by Jennifer Bain
Disclaimer: Jennifer Bain’s flight to Cappadocia was provided by GoTürkiye and Turkish Airlines. She was not compensated for her time spent researching, travelling and writing this feature, nor was JourneyWoman for publishing it. In addition, the host organizations did not review this article before it was published, a practice that allows the writer to express her perspective with integrity and candour.
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The post Why Cappadocia is the Perfect Place to Conquer a Fear of Hot Air Ballooning: The Ultimate 59th Birthday Gift to Myself appeared first on JourneyWoman.