Congress has introduced the Take Care of America’s Veterans Act, legislation that includes many provisions the Veterans of Foreign Wars (VFW) has fought for and supports.
But there is a serious problem.
To pay for those benefits, Congress would codify previously proposed VA disability rating cuts for tinnitus and sleep apnea. According to VA’s own estimates, these changes could reduce disability compensation payments by approximately $57 billion over 10 years and affect up to 1.5 million veterans.
Let’s be clear. Those savings do not come from waste, fraud, abuse, or bureaucracy. They come directly from veterans.
That is $57 billion that would no longer help veterans pay mortgages, put food on the table, cover medical expenses, support their families, or support local communities across America.
We do not want this fight.
Many of the benefits in this bill are priorities that the VFW has worked for years to achieve. But we cannot support paying for those benefits by taking compensation away from other veterans.
And we cannot allow Congress to establish a dangerous precedent. If veterans’ disability compensation becomes an acceptable funding source today, it will become easier to use it again tomorrow.
The VFW refuses to accept the idea that one group of veterans must lose so another group of veterans can win. Veterans’ benefits are not charity. They are an earned obligation of the nation and part of the promise made through military service. Congress should Honor the Contract.
A grateful nation pays its debts to veterans – it does not send them the invoice.
I’ve been coming back to the Veneto since I was fifteen, when my parents first brought me and a thunderstorm chased us across St Mark’s Square. Over the years Jess and I have worked our way out from the lagoon into the mainland cities most visitors skip, and Padua is the one we keep pressing…
I know it’s rough out there right now; between grocery prices staying sky-high and gas eating up half our paychecks, just getting by feels like a sport. But there’s no way I’m letting a tight budget stop me from hosting my annual 4th of July cookout! Holiday celebrations are about connecting with the people we love, and honestly, we all need a little time to unwind over a good meal. So instead of giving up, Jennie, Melissa, and I went to my local Walmart with a strict game plan and challenged ourselves to feed 8 people for $40(ish). I was skeptical, but with a few store-brand shortcuts and reliable Budget Bytes recipes, we pulled it off, made it festive, and nobody is leaving hungry!
A Budget-Friendly 4th of July Cookout for 8
The 4th of July has been my absolute favorite holiday since I was a kid, mostly because it strips away the stressful commercialism. There’s zero pressure around gifts, which is a major win for our wallets halfway through the year. Let’s face it: times are tough right now, and it’s easy to feel worn down by how divided the country feels. But that’s exactly why this holiday matters so much. When we gather under a sky lit up by community fireworks (a tradition with a $0 price tag), it’s a powerful reminder of what connects us.
For me, Independence Day renews a deep sense of hope and a patriotic duty to participate in our democracy, look out for our neighbors, and take care of each other. Keeping our celebrations simple, delicious, and budget-friendly isn’t just practical; it leaves us with more energy to focus on the real work of building a stronger, more united community, no matter where you live in the USA!
Why Walmart?
We chose Walmart for this menu because the grocery giant captures roughly 21.2% of the entire U.S. grocery market share (by comparison, Kroger is second at 8.9%). Part of why so many Americans shop there is convenience: over 90% of the U.S. population lives within 10 miles of a Walmart store, so we didn’t want to ask you to drive all over town hunting for deals. The goal was a one-stop shop cookout plan you can actually pull off without stressing over your grocery bill or your gas tank. (More than usual, anyway).
Of course, prices vary all over the country. We did our best to choose products that are widely available, so they should be some of the lowest-priced options at your local Walmart, too. And no, we’re not sponsored by Walmart! (Although I’m pretty sure Walmart owes me money after this post and our Easter Dinner for $40 post earlier this year!) 😉
Grocery List
4-5lbs. boneless chicken breasts ($10.59)
BBQ sauce ($1.72)
8 Burger buns ($1.48)
Bread and butter pickle chips ($2.64)
15oz. Mayonnaise ($0.56)
16oz. bag of slaw mix (we used tri-color colelsaw) ($1.97)
3lbs. Yellow potatoes ($3.18)
Cucumber ($0.76)
3 Roma tomatoes ($0.81 per lb., $1.03)
Red onion ($1.00 per lb., 0.51lb. $0.34)
16oz. Great Value brand Traditional Italian Dressing ($2.32)
Celery stalk ($0.50)
Great Value brand Garden Rotini* ($0.98)
Mini watermelon** ($3.88)
12 Mini cupcakes*** ($3.98)
If you’re trying to stay within budget (we aimed for UNDER $44 total while making this blog post), go for Great Value brand everything whenever possible.
*The Great Value tri-color “garden rotini” was one cent cheaper than the regular rotini, but get whichever you prefer!
**Mini watermelons were cheaper when we wrote this post, but full-size watermelons usually get cheaper as summer goes on. Grab the best deal you see! Mini melons are small but mighty; we got 27 slices out of ours, so everyone still gets a generous portion. Use any leftovers to make our refreshing watermelon gazpacho or watermelon and feta salad.
***Walmart’s bakery section always has something pre-made, inexpensive, and festive. While we could have made cupcakes from scratch, we picked up some nicely decorated premade ones to save time. Cheap and cheerful!
Shop at home first. We already had pantry staples like salt, sugar, spices, oil, vinegar, and mustard, so we used what was already in our kitchens before adding anything extra to the cart.
Choose store brand whenever possible. The Great Value brand products helped us keep this menu close to budget. For items like pasta, BBQ sauce, mayo, salad dressing, and cupcakes, the savings added up fast!
We’re all about smart ingredient multitasking. You can easily clear out that entire jar of mayonnaise by dividing it between the creamy coleslaw and our classic potato salad, which also gets a tangy upgrade from a generous scoop of diced pickles (that are leftover from the sandwiches). We also split one red onion between the potato salad and the refreshing pasta salad!
Don’t be shy about asking your friends and family to bring a side dish or contribute to the cooler of cold beverages! It’s a great way to keep your costs down and spirits high.
What’s in this 4th of July Cookout Spread for ~$40
This 4th of July cookout spread is all about budget shortcuts and ingredients that work hard. We stretched grilled BBQ chicken into sandwiches, used the mayo, pickles, and red onion in more than one place, and rounded things out with pasta salad, cupcakes, and cold watermelon slices for an easy summer meal that feeds 8!
BBQ Chicken Breast Sandwiches
Jess: I knew I had to include super juicy grilled chicken breasts on my 4th of July spread, but I knew I would blow our budget if I tried to serve one breast per person. Instead, I found a $10.59 value pack of 5 chicken breasts at Walmart and decided to slice the meat for sandwiches after I pulled it off the grill and let it rest. A drizzle of store-brand BBQ sauce, a mountain of crunchy slaw, and some pickles on top transformed the chicken into an absolute feast. We fed a crowd of 8 and had some leftovers for chicken salad with a BBQ twist the next day!
Prep it ahead: Don’t forget to brine your chicken breasts! You only need water, sugar, and salt to make the super simple brine from my recipe above. That can be done 30 minutes before it hits the grill or even 24 hours before. There’s a LOT of prep you can do for this celebration in advance, so you’re stress-free on the fourth!
Creamy Coleslaw
Easy Creamy Coleslaw
This classic sweet and tangy homemade Creamy Coleslaw Recipe is perfect for piling onto pulled pork sandwiches or serving as a side with dinner.
Melissa: There’s nothing more classic than creamy coleslaw piled high on a BBQ sandwich! To make it even easier, I used bagged coleslaw mix, and I split the jar of mayo on our shopping list between the slaw and our potato salad for this budget-friendly 4th of July spread. If you already have cabbage and carrots on hand, you can skip the bagged mix and use about 3 cups finely shredded cabbage and 1 shredded medium carrot instead!
Prep it ahead: You can make the dressing a day ahead and store it in the fridge. I’d wait to toss it with the slaw mix until a few hours before serving so the cabbage stays nice and crunchy.
Potato Salad
Classic Southern Style Potato Salad
This classic Southern Style Potato Salad uses both mustard and mayonnaise for a super flavorful dressing that is rich, tangy, and creamy.
Melissa: I’ve never met a potato I didn’t like, and this Southern style potato salad is no exception. The best part is customizing this recipe and utilizing ingredients you already have. I seasoned it with pantry staples and made some smart substitutions: I swapped the green onions I’d normally use for the red onion we were already using in the pasta salad. And instead of relish, I just chopped up some of the pickles that Jess used in her BBQ chicken sandwiches. This not only stretches the ingredient further but stretches your dollar, too! I also decided to leave out the eggs to keep costs down. If you’ve got an egg or two, though, add it in!
Prep it ahead: You can make the potato salad a day or two in advance if you’re pressed for time. Store it in the fridge until serving.
Pasta Salad
Pasta Salad
This easy Pasta Salad is full of fresh flavors and tossed in a zesty Italian dressing. It will be the star at your next BBQ or summer cookout!
Jennie: It’s not a summer cookout without a pasta salad, in my opinion! There are so many variations, but you can’t go wrong with the classic. We took our beloved easy pasta salad recipe and made it even more budget-friendly for the 4th.
I swapped grape tomatoes for diced Roma tomatoes, then added cucumber, red onion (which we split with the potato salad!), a few pantry staples, rainbow rotini, and a zesty bottled Italian dressing. I went for tri-color garden rotini for extra color since we used fewer fresh veggies to save money, and it was actually a cent cheaper than regular rotini at my Walmart, which was interesting!
Prep it ahead: You can also prepare the pasta salad a day in advance. In fact, I think it’s better that way, as it gives the pasta time to soak up the juices from the vegetables and all of that dressing! Keep it in the fridge until serving.
Mini Cupcakes
Jess: I enjoy making desserts, but when I’m hosting a party at my place, sometimes I need to focus on the good vibes and keeping the tunes going, so I’ll grab a store-bought dessert instead. I’m more of a crisp, cold watermelon kinda gal on the 4th, but for the kiddos and adults with a sweet tooth, I grabbed a dozen mini cupcakes!
Walmart usually has fun holiday-themed desserts around the big day, so it’s easy to pick something up that feels festive and frees up a bunch of my time and energy so I can focus on other things. Plus, who wants to turn on the oven to make cupcakes in Tennessee when July hits? (Spoiler alert: no one!)
Watermelon Slices
Jess: I had to include watermelon because nothing tastes better next to BBQ and creamy cookout sides than those cold, juicy slices. Our mini watermelon yield was 25-30 slices (I couldn’t help eating some before I counted—my bad!), so even though they’re small, you can still slice them up into manageable pieces and feed a crowd.
Click the image above to download our free grocery list for this 4th of July Cookout for around $40!
Despite being a smaller and older ship in the Carnival Cruise Line fleet, Carnival Sunrise still delivers an exceptional variety of dining with something for every taste and budget. In fact, we were surprised by the sheer number of dining options. From complimentary favorites like Guy’s Burger Joint and BlueIguana Cantina, to upscale specialty venues such as Fahrenheit 555 steakhouse and The Chef’s Table, to brand-new offerings like Bagels at Sea, Carnival Sunrise’s diverse culinary options ensure every meal is memorable. Whether you’re looking for quick bites or gourmet experiences, we cover them all in our Carnival Sunrise restaurants guide with menus.
Complimentary Carnival Sunrise Restaurants
There are several dining options on the list of Carnival Sunrise restaurants that are included in your cruise fare. These include the typical main dining room as well as the cruise ship buffet.
Carnival Cruise Line ships also offer several quick service options that are complimentary. From Mexican favorites at BlueIguana Cantina, to burgers at Guy’s Burger Joint, to pizza at Pizzeria del Capitano, there are plenty of tasty options that won’t cost you anything. In our opinion, Carnival has some of the best casual dining at sea!
Radiance Restaurant (Decks 3 & 4)
The Carnival Sunrise Main Dining Rooms include two different dining experiences. If you are a more traditional cruiser, you can opt for either Early or Late Assigned Dining. The Radiance Restaurant is reserved for Assigned Dining, with seatings at 5:30 PM and 7:45 PM.
Cruisers who want to try a variety of the dining options on the ship or want a more flexible schedule might prefer Your Time Dining. With this option, cruisers can dine whenever they want by joining a virtual queue in the Carnival HUB app when they are ready to eat. This option is available from 5:15 to 8:45 PM daily. Just note that there may be a wait similar to a restaurant on land.
Regardless of whether you pick Assigned Dining or Your Time Dining, the Radiance and Sunshine restaurants offer the same rotational menu. These menus do change nightly with a few always available items, like the famous chocolate melting cake.
Across all Carnival Cruise Line ships, extra entrees in the main dining room are an upcharge. Guests may continue to order a second complimentary entrée if they choose; however, a third entrée will incur a $5 charge.
The Radiance Restaurant on Carnival Sunrise can be found more midship of the Sunshine Restaurant and is typically only open for dinner.
Sunshine Restaurant (Decks 3 & 4)
The Sunshine Restaurant is the aft-located, larger Carnival Sunrise main dining room. The venue is for guests who opt for Your Time Dining or Express Your Time Dining. The “express” option has a more limited menu but is designed to get you in and out of the dining room in under an hour.
The Sunshine Restaurant serves breakfast on port days from around 7:30 to 9:30 AM. These times may vary based on your arrival into port. Items on the menu include your typical sit down breakfast options like eggs your way, omelets, pancakes, and more.
On sea days, the restaurant serves a Sea Day Brunch instead from 8:30 AM to 12 PM. This Sea Day Brunch is a must-try, especially items like the tasty skillet cake, 12-hour french toast, steak and eggs, and chicken and waffles.
Once again, the dinner menu at the Sunshine Restaurant rotates each evening like most cruise lines offering a wide array of starters, entrees, and desserts including dishes selected by the cruise line’s Chief Culinary Officer, Emeril Lagasse.
Below are the menus from our recent 5-night Carnival Sunrise sailing. Keep in mind that the menu rotation is subject to change based on your cruise’s particular itinerary.
NOTE: While Carnival has announced a fleetwide update to its MDR menus, Carnival Sunrise does not have the new menus yet. The cruise line has not yet announced when the update will occur on this ship, but the rollout is expected to be complete by the end of 2026.
Located on the portside of the Lido deck, BlueIguana Cantina serves up Mexican favorites for both breakfast and lunch. You can customize your breakfast or lunch burrito any way you like as they are freshly prepared just for you. There is even a salsa bar located nearby.
If you’d prefer tacos or a salad/rice bowl, you can get those too at the BlueIguana Cantina. The best part is that everything here is complimentary.
This venue is open daily from 7:30 to 10:30 AM for breakfast and anywhere from 12/1:30 to 2:30/5 PM for lunch depending on the port of call.
BlueIguana also serves All Things Wings from 12/1:30 to 6/7 PM daily.
Also located on the Lido Deck (starboard side), Guy’s Burger Joint serves up some of the best burgers at sea. In partnership with Guy Fieri, this poolside shack features fresh off the grill burgers and fries with a toppings bar for you to customize your meal to perfection.
Guy’s Burger Joint is open every day from around 12 to 6 PM to satisfy all your burger cravings. How many will you eat on a single cruise? Really, you can’t go wrong with any of the selections on the menu.
And a newer offering that surprised us: Guy’s now serves breakfast burgers! From 8 to 10:30 AM daily, you can order up items like the Plain Joe, a beef patty with fried eggs, cheese, and maple donkey sauce.
This is perhaps the busiest quick service eatery on Carnival Sunrise, so don’t be surprised to find a queue.
The Lido Marketplace is your typical cruise ship buffet, featuring a variety of selections for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Honestly, with so many other offerings on Carnival Sunrise, we did not eat here much during our cruise.
The Lido Marketplace is typically open for breakfast from around 7/7:30 to 10:30/11 AM, with continental breakfast options available starting at 6:30 AM. The venue then reopens for lunch from around 12 to 2:30/3:30 PM. Then, dinner is available from 5:30 to 9 PM nightly. Late night snacks are also available 11:30 PM until 2:30 AM.
For breakfast, you’ll find typical selections of eggs, breakfast meats, pancakes, and omelet stations. There’s also an additional omelet station at the Seafood Shack aft of the buffet.
For lunch and dinner, there’s a salad station, dessert station, carving station, rotating hot entrees, cold cuts, and more. There’s also a “Family Express” area serving items like chicken tenders, hot dogs, pasta, and fries.
At the front of the Lido Marketplace, you’ll also find Carnival Deli (portside) and Lucky Bowl (starboard). This deli serves up some made to order sandwiches and is open daily from around 11 AM to 11 PM. Lucky Bowl is a unique offering on Carnival Sunrise and features four rotating rice and noodle bowls. Lucky Bowl is open daily for lunch from around 12/1:30 to 2:30/5 PM depending on the itinerary.
There’s even a small station where guests can purchase up-charge donuts and beignets in the morning.
For those looking for a soft serve fix, you can rejoice that there are two locations onboard Carnival Sunrise, with stations on each side of the Lido Marketplace open from 11 AM to midnight. Choose between vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, or twist.
Pizzeria del Capitano (Deck 9)
Located at the aft of the Lido Deck near the Tides Pool, Pizzeria del Capitano is your go-to spot for pizza. This eatery is open daily from 9 AM to midnight to fulfill your cravings any time of day.
This pizzeria features a walk-up counter where guests can order fresh out of the oven pizza slices. You can then enjoy your pizza in the nearby seating area or take it to-go to enjoy anywhere around the ship. There are five free options to enjoy as well as a couple up-charge variations for $6 each. Don’t be surprised to find a line here, as it is quite popular too, especially as a late-night snack option.
Another new offering that we quite enjoyed is Bagels @ Sea, located at Pizzeria del Capitano in the morning from around 7/7:30 to 10/10:30 AM. Here, you can enjoy bagels and breakfast sandwiches away from the crowds in the Lido Marketplace.
Guy’s Pig & Anchor Smokehouse is a complimentary buffet style lunch on sea days and embarkation day. This venue is open from around 12 to 2:30 PM and is located outside on the portside of the Panorama deck overlooking the Lido. Here, you will have your choice of pork, chicken, beef, or sausage along with some custom sides like mac & cheese and baked beans alongside award-winning sauces.
Given it’s only open select days of the cruise, the line was consistently very long during our sailing.
With so many great complimentary offerings, you certainly do not have to pay extra for dining on Carnival Sunrise (if you don’t want to). Though, this ship also offers a few specialty restaurants that come with an up-charge but are worth a try.
If you plan to dine at any of these Carnival Sunrise restaurants, you should make reservations pre-cruise, as popular dining times do fill up quickly.
Chef’s Table (Deck 3)
The Chef’s Table is an exclusive dinner hosted by the executive chef. This experience includes an elegant, multi-course meal with selections not found anywhere else on the ship, and exquisite service. This intimate meal is priced at $124 per person +20% gratuity.
This menu is subject to change based on the chef’s preferences and locally sourced ingredients. If you have allergies or dietary preferences, the chef will work to customize the experience for you.
Make sure to save room, as this is a meal you won’t forget!
Fahrenheit 555 is Carnival Cruise Line’s signature steakhouse. This American steakhouse has a warm and inviting atmosphere with an open concept kitchen, making it a great choice for an elegant night dinner.
The restaurant is open nightly for dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 PM. The cover charge at this venue is $52 per person (+20% gratuity) or $15 for kids 11 and under.
The menu at Fahrenheit 555 features upscale offerings like shrimp cocktail, lobster bisque, oysters, and premium cuts of beef. For those who don’t eat beef, other entree selections include chicken, lobster tail, and dover sole. And you can’t forget dessert!
This sushi lovers paradise is an a la carte venue that is open for dinner daily from 5 PM to 12 AM. Bonsai Sushi is also open for lunch on sea days from 12 to 2:30 PM.
Bonsai Sushi offers several sushi and sashimi selections, as well as noodle bowls and Japanese small plates. So, even if you are not a fan of sushi, there are probably other menu items for you to enjoy at this venue for reasonable prices.
The casual Seafood Shack is located aft on Deck 9 near the Tides bar and pool across from the Pizzeria del Capitano. This counter service restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily varying times from 12 PM to 3 PM until 10 PM depending on the port of call. The Seafood Shack offers classic favorites like fried shrimp, lobster rolls, fish & chips, clam chowder, steamed lobster, and more.
All menus items at this venue are a la carte, with prices ranging from $5 for chowder, $10 for fried shrimp, and $34 for snow crab by the pound.
Cucina del Capitano is Carnival Cruise Line’s traditional Italian restaurant. The price to dine here is $24 per person (+20% gratuity) or $11 for kids under 11 years old.
Cucina del Capitano is open for dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 PM nightly. Cruisers can enjoy favorites like Nonna’s meatball, calamari, various pasta dishes, chicken parm, short rib, and mile-high gelato pie in a rustic-themed venue. While a $6 up-charge, the gelato pie was totally worth it!
Pasta Bella Pasta Bar is a complimentary option for lunch in Cucina del Capitano from 12 to 2:30 PM. This select menu features custom bowls where guests pick their own noodles, sauce, protein, and veggies.
Room service is available 24 hours a day with select complimentary items and other items that are available for an up-charge at a la carte pricing.
For breakfast (6 to 10 AM), you can choose from fruit, cereal, continental pastry items, and yogurt for no additional cost as well as breakfast sandwiches for around $5.
During the day (10 AM to 6 AM), various items are available at a la carte prices. Selections on the All Day Menu include salads, sandwiches, burgers, wings, desserts, and more. Most items cost between $5 to $8 each.
An additional 20% gratuity will be added to each order as well.
Do you have plans to cruise on Carnival Sunrise? What is your favorite from the list of Carnival Sunrise restaurants? Drop us an anchor below to share your dining preferences on Carnival Cruise Line.
The battle over a visa for the mother of a revered soccer goalie has put a spotlight on the archipelago of Cape Verde, whose residents have a storied legacy of service in the U.S. military, including one sailor who some researchers consider to be the first African-born recipient of the Medal of Honor.
Forty-year-old goalie Josimar “Vozinha” Dias recently earned a certificate from the Guinness World Records book as “the oldest goalkeeper to keep a clean sheet” in a World Cup debut with his acrobatic play on June 15 for the Tubarões Azuis — Blue Sharks — of Cape Verde, turning away shot after shot to hold powerhouse Spain to 0-0 draw.
Cape Verde again produced a stunner on Sunday, coming from behind to earn a 2-2 draw with heavily favored Uruguay, a score that featured the tiny island nation’s first-ever goal in a World Cup.
“This means everything for our country,” Cape Verde coach Pedro Leitão Brito told the Associated Press. “We have always said that we wanted everybody to see our country, our team and we have shown organization and braveness and this is proof of what our country is about — resilience and to try to overcome hardships.”
Vozinha, however, was in tears after the June 15 match over the money and red tape for a visa that kept his mother from attending her son’s shutout of Spain.
“I cried after the game because I grew up with my grandparents when I was a kid, and they could not be there,” he told reporters. “They passed away a few years ago. My mum could not be here either for a visa issue, and the money we had to pay for it. We did not manage to do this in time.”
House Minority Leader Rep. Hakeem Jeffries (D-N.Y.), the only member of Congress of Cape Verdean descent, then worked with Secretary of State Marco Rubio to clear up the $15,000 visa issue.
“No mother should miss the chance to see her child make history,” Jeffries said in a statement. All fees were subsequently waived, Jeffries added.
Vozinha’s mother was in attendance on Sunday to watch her son against Uruguay. Cape Verde next plays on June 26 against Saudi Arabia, with a possible chance to punch their ticket to the elimination round on the line.
The goalie’s heroics and the flap over the visa, meanwhile, drew attention to the long history of the U.S. connection to Cape Verde, sometimes called Cabo Verde, an island chain and former Portuguese possession about 350 miles off the west coast of Africa.
In comments for a Smithsonian Magazine article, Donald Heflin, the former U.S ambassador to Cape Verde, noted, “Cabo Verdean Americans are one of [the U.S.’s] oldest immigrant communities, going back to the colonial whaling days.”
“We have the names of five Cabo Verdeans who fought in the American Revolution,” Heflin continued. “And their proud military tradition grows from there, with the numbers of Cabo Verdean Americans in uniform getting larger with each of America’s wars.”
One of those Cape Verdeans was Joachim Pease, who served aboard the Union sloop of war Kearsarge during the June 19, 1864, epic battle against the Confederate raider Alabama off the French port of Cherbourg.
The Union Army was segregated at the time — the Navy was not. Aboard Kearsarge, Pease served as the loader on a 32-pounder gun that helped sink the Alabama, according to the Smithsonian article.
Pease disappeared after the Kearsarge returned to Boston. He was never located.
The Navy was unable to present him with the medal, which is now on display at the National Museum of the United States Navy in the Washington Navy Yard in Washington.
These easy lentil Vegan Meatballs prove you don’t need ground beef to get big, cozy, classic meatball flavor. Lentils aren’t just incredibly budget-friendly—they’re also surprisingly high in protein, giving these vegan meatballs some serious staying power. Caramelized onions add deep savory sweetness, and a pinch of fennel seed brings that unmistakable Italian vibe. They’re hearty, comforting, and perfect for anyone craving a plant-based twist on a classic. (I always am!) Not to mention, you can make this whole recipe for just over $5!
Homemade Vegan Lentil Meatballs
Experimenting with seriously good homemade alternatives to classic meat recipes is my JAM (especially when they use simple, affordable ingredients instead of pricey vegan meat substitutes!) I’ve spent years playing with plant-based comfort food, and my goal is never to make something that feels like a sad substitute. I wanted these vegan meatballs to have the same savory, umami-rich flavor of classic homemade meatballs, so I borrowed the mushroom, walnut, and sun-dried tomato base from my lentil loaf and turned it into a tender, bite-sized pasta-night staple.
Vegan meatballs can go mushy fast if the base has too much moisture, so this recipe starts by browning the mushrooms and onions until the extra liquid cooks away. From there, the flax ‘egg’, breadcrumbs, and slightly firm lentils help the mixture bind into scoopable meatballs with tender centers. I also give these lentil meatballs a quick breadcrumb coating, which helps the outside toast up in the oven so they actually hold together once they’re served with sauce! They soak up whatever sauce you toss them with, but stay in meatball form. My family loves these piled onto spaghetti with lots of pasta sauce.
Recipe Success Tips
Use slightly firm lentils. I recommend brown/green lentils for these vegan meatballs because they hold their shape better than softer red or yellow lentils. Cook them until they’re tender but still have a little structure. Overcooked lentils can make the mixture too soft and harder to roll. Full cooking instructions for lentils are in the recipe card notes below!
Cook the mushrooms until the extra moisture is gone. Mushrooms release a lot of water as they cook, then that moisture evaporates, and the mushrooms start to brown. That browning is what builds the savory, meaty flavor. Cooking off the liquid also keeps the meatball mixture thick instead of mushy.
Let the flax ‘egg’ thicken. I use a mixture of ground flax and water to replace the egg typically used in other meatball recipes. Let it sit for a few minutes until it looks slightly gelled; that thicker texture helps bind the lentils, breadcrumbs, and veggies together.
Pulse, don’t puree. When you add all the ingredients to the food processor in step 8, pulse just until the mixture is sticky and thick. A few visible lentils are a good thing because they give these veggie meatballs a heartier texture instead of turning the mixture into a paste.
Bake before adding a sauce. Baking helps the breadcrumb coating toast and gives the outside of these vegan meatballs time to set. I don’t recommend letting them simmer in a sauce for a long time, as too much liquid and movement can soften the outside and make them more delicate.
Gather ingredients and preheat oven to 375℉. If your lentils aren’t already cooked, see the recipe card notes below for instructions on how to cook lentils.
In a dry sauté pan, toast fennel seeds and walnut pieces until fragrant over medium-low heat, stirring often to avoid burning. Do this for around 4 minutes. You’ll be able to smell the fennel and a warm smell from the walnuts lightly toasting. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Meanwhile, thinly slice half an onion (or dice it if that’s easier for you) and add to the same pan with 1 Tbsp sun-dried oil (or olive oil). Turn the heat up to medium. Stir the onions occasionally; we want them to caramelize, not burn!
Make the “flax egg” by combining the ground flax and water. Stir well and let it sit while you continue with the recipe.
Clean and quarter mushrooms, chop garlic, and sun-dried tomatoes.
Add mushrooms, garlic, salt, pepper, and chili flakes to the sauté pan.
Stir and cook until the mushroom onion mixture is browned and all of the mushrooms have softened, about 5 minutes. Once cooked, remove from the heat and allow them to cool.
To a food processor, add the cooked lentils, toasted walnuts and fennel seeds, flax egg, soy sauce, Italian seasoning, sun-dried tomatoes, mushroom and onion mixture, and half the breadcrumbs.
Pulse until a sticky, thick mixture forms. It’s ok if you still see some whole lentils.
Scoop 1 Tbsp of the lentil meatball mixture out at a time and lightly roll it in the remaining breadcrumbs.
Arrange the veggie meatballs on lined cookie sheets and give them a spray with cooking oil to help toast up the breadcrumbs nicely! Bake for 20-25 minutes, gently shaking the baking sheet about halfway through. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve!
*Walnuts add a nice texture difference and earthy flavor. You can also swap them with any other nut or seed, like pecans, almonds, or shelled sunflower seeds. Or for a nut-free version, replace them completely with ¼ cup more cooked lentils!
**Oil packed sun-dried tomatoes are the easiest option as they’re ready to use. If you’re using dehydrated sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrate them in oil or hot water first. For this recipe, I recommend rehydrating them in olive oil (this will take a while, so start the process in the morning or the day before you plan to make your meatballs). You can use the sun-dried tomato-infused olive oil in this recipe, giving them extra flavor!
***Mushrooms make up a big part of the ‘meaty’ flavor and texture. I use white button mushrooms for the price, but you can use other mushrooms like cremini or portobello. There isn’t an equal substitute for the mushrooms in this particular recipe.
****For lentil meatballs, slightly firmer brown/green lentils are ideal—they hold together better when mixed with breadcrumbs and other ingredients. Canned lentils can work in a pinch, but drain them very well first.
Flax Seed Egg: The flax ‘egg’ is made by mixing ground flaxseed with water until it thickens slightly, which helps bind the vegan meatballs together. If you’re not keeping this recipe vegan, you can replace the flax egg with 2 large eggs.
How to Cook Lentils (makes 5-6 cups once cooked): Rinse 2 cups dry brown lentils and pick out any debris. Add them to a pot with 6-8 cups of hot water and optional seasonings like a pinch of salt, bay leaf, or aromatics. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently, partially covered, for 15-20 minutes or until tender but not mushy. Drain any excess liquid. This makes about 5-6 cups of cooked lentils, and you can use them in any lentil recipe you like! If you’re avoiding leftovers, use ~¾ cup dry lentils and 2 cups of hot water to make about 2 cups of cooked lentils.
Gather all your ingredients and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
Toast the fennel seeds and walnuts: Add 1 tsp fennel seeds and ¼ cup walnut pieces to a dry sauté pan. Toast over medium-low heat for about 4 minutes, stirring often, until the walnuts smell warm and nutty and the fennel is fragrant. Keep a close eye on them so they don’t burn. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Caramelize the onions: While the walnuts and fennel seeds toast, julienne (thinly slice) ½ yellow onion. You can also dice it if that’s easier.
Once the walnuts and fennel seeds are toasted and removed from the pan, add 1 Tbsp sun-dried tomato oil (or olive oil) to the same pan, then turn the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly caramelized. You want the edges golden and sweet-smelling, not dark or burnt.
Make a flax egg: Make the flax egg by stirring together 2 Tbsp ground flax and 6 Tbsp water in a small bowl. Let it sit while you continue with the recipe. It should thicken into a gel-like mixture after a few minutes, which helps bind the meatballs together.
Prep the fresh ingredients: Clean and quarter 8 oz. white button mushrooms. Chop 2 garlic cloves and ¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes.
Sauté the mushrooms and garlic: Add the quartered mushrooms, chopped garlic, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp black pepper, and ⅛ tsp chili flakes to the pan with the onions. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have softened, released their moisture, and browned.
The mixture should look darker, glossy, and fairly dry, not watery. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool slightly.
Combine the ingredients: Add 2 cups cooked lentils, the toasted walnuts and fennel seeds, the thickened flax egg, 1 Tbsp soy sauce, 1 Tbsp Italian herb seasoning, ¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes, the cooked mushroom-onion mixture, and ¼ cup plain breadcrumbs to a food processor.
Pulse until a thick, sticky mixture forms. Don’t over-process it into a completely smooth paste; it’s okay if you still see a few whole lentils and small bits of mushroom or walnut. The mixture should hold together when pressed. If the mixture feels too soft to roll, let it rest for 10-15 minutes to allow the breadcrumbs to soak up any moisture. If it feels dry and crumbly, pulse a few more times or add a tiny splash of water or sun-dried tomato oil.
Roll in breadcrumbs: Add the remaining ¼ cup plain breadcrumbs to a shallow bowl. Scoop the lentil mixture 1 Tbsp at a time, gently shape it into small meatballs, then lightly roll each one in the breadcrumbs. If the mixture feels too sticky, lightly dampen your hands as you roll.
Bake: Arrange the veggie meatballs on the prepared baking sheet, leaving a little space between each one. Lightly coat the tops with cooking spray to help the breadcrumbs toast and turn golden.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, gently shaking the baking sheet halfway through, until the meatballs are firm, lightly browned, and crisp on the outside. Garnish with fresh parsley, and serve warm. Enjoy!
Serving Suggestions
My favorite way to serve these vegan meatballs is the classic way: piled over spaghetti with warm marinara sauce and a little fresh parsley. They’re also SO good with my angel hair pasta pomodoro because the light, garlicky tomato sauce keeps the whole meal bright and fresh while still giving you a cozy pasta-night feel.
This recipe makes 8 servings, with 4 meatballs per serving, so it’s great for family dinners, meal prep, or freezing a few for later. You can also tuck the meatballs into toasted rolls for vegan meatball subs, serve them as a party appetizer with a balsamic glaze or your favorite dipping sauce, or spoon them over olive oil mashed potatoes with a mushroom herb gravy for the coziest comfort food dinner.
Meal Prep It!
This recipe makes a big batch of vegan meatballs, which means future-you gets an easy dinner win. To freeze before baking, scoop and roll the mixture, coat in breadcrumbs, then freeze on a parchment-lined baking sheet until solid. Transfer the meatballs to a freezer bag or container, then bake straight from frozen (add a few extra minutes to the total baking time). I skip thawing because the breadcrumb coating can soak up moisture and not get as toasty.
Storage & Reheating
Store leftover vegan meatballs in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. The breadcrumb coating will soften a little as they sit. They’ll still taste great, but reheating them in the oven or air fryer brings back the best texture!
Reheating
Reheat leftovers in the oven or air fryer at 350ºF until hot throughout and lightly crisp on the outside. The microwave works in a pinch, but they’ll turn out softer (which is good for sandwiches and wraps, I’d say!)
Freezer
To freeze baked vegan meatballs, let them cool completely, then freeze them in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet until solid. Transfer to a freezer bag or container and freeze for up to 3 months. Reheat from frozen in the oven or air fryer until hot throughout.
Got Leftover Lentils? Try These Recipes Next:
My Lentil Loaf brings all the nostalgic meatloaf-style comfort, but keeps things totally vegan with lentils, veggies, and pantry staples.
This Vegan Lasagna makes 12 servings, which is the kind of big-batch dinner I want when comfort food meets meal prep!
Lentil Bologneseuses a classic onion, carrot, and celery base, then adds garlic, basil, oregano, and crushed red pepper for a cozy flavor.
Veteran Profile: Jimmy and Dorothy Wiseman, Up for the Adventure
Jimmy and Dorothy Wiseman are each mechanically-inclined in their own way. While Dorothy’s career as an aerospace technical writer made her part of the pioneer engineering team of the C-17 flight simulator, Jimmy’s expertise served him as the lead brake tester for Waste Management’s fleet of trucks. But many years before Jimmy helped deploy these trucks familiar across the country, he repaired Dorothy’s roommate’s truck one fateful day.
“He was a skinny little guy,” Dorothy laughs, reminiscing about their meeting. Both she and Jimmy had previously been married, had children, and begun careers when they crossed paths in their early 40s. As a sometime ballroom dance instructor, Dorothy charmed Jimmy, who offered to pay her to be his dance partner. From there, they learned just how much they had in common. Along with a budding romantic connection, they soon became partners at Jimmy’s mobile mechanic business, with Dorothy providing administration.
Armed Forces Service
In 1975, a young Dorothy had been working at a shopping center in her hometown of Kansas City, KS, when she came across a suite of recruiters. “I happened to walk up to the Army National Guard,” she says, “and that’s where I signed up.” Seeking educational opportunities and some adventure, she went to Fort Jackson, SC, for basic training, then was largely stationed at Fort Reilly, KS, with some service in Michigan. Along with technical writing, she was assigned duties driving vehicles or assisting drivers, such as when she helped guide the Gama Goat, a huge, heavy amphibious vehicle developed for Vietnam-era combat. When the Goat once got stuck between two trees, “they had to just cut them down!”
She also went hang gliding and piloted a converted Cessna T210 plane, reaching 17,500 feet—just 500 feet lower than commercial aircraft. After six years in the Army National Guard, Dorothy settled in California to continue an aerospace career as a civilian, working for the McDonnell Douglas Corporation (part of Boeing since the 1990s).
Meanwhile, Jimmy had joined the Army in 1970, serving in the Vietnam conflict and completing basic training at Fort Ord on the Monterey Bay. He was promoted from E-4 to E-7 so that he could command a bridge tank (a sight for anyone who hasn’t seen one). Serving part of his time in Frankfurt, Germany, Jimmy commanded a tank and served as a helicopter crew chief. While he remembers Vietnam as “a bad time” with some very difficult experiences, he fondly remembers travels through Europe, notably Amsterdam. He marveled at castles and churches and learned a lot about the world’s beauty.
He also remembers small moments of levity, like when his general made him the only soldier allowed near the floor shiner after he proved his aptitude. Decades later, he is still proud of standing out for his care and attention to detail.
Remembering their time in the service, Dorothy says she wishes others “would understand the rigorous training you have to go through” to respond to potential threats. Once servicemembers return to civilian life, the rules change, and they have to adapt to de-escalation, sometimes with little support. Jimmy agrees, and adds that the armed forces are all about following directions. “If you go with what they say, you’ll do fine. If you don’t, you’ll have a bad time.” He adds that he succeeded by remembering “spit-shined boots, and starch and creases in your uniform.”
Life After Service
Meeting as veterans, Dorothy and Jimmy had much in common, including a sense of adventure. In 2004 (they think), the couple set off on a multi-year road trip on an 18-wheel semi truck, visiting the 48 contiguous states. Sometimes, Dorothy would be cooking in their kitchen in the truck while Jimmy drove. They became a fixture among other road warriors, especially those stuck in snow, for offering coffee and hospitality. For decades now, they have lived together, worked together, and traveled together.
Currently, they live in a small town in Missouri, which made it difficult to get the assistive care Jimmy needed. “It is extremely hard to find someone that’s good. I could tell you some horror stories,” Dorothy notes. Thankfully, they found caregivers they love and trust. “I love my girls. They help me a lot,” says Jimmy, with Dorothy adding that she now feels secure leaving Jimmy at home when she runs errands.
Care for Jimmy was made possible through the VA’s Aid and Attendance benefit, for which he qualified and which the Wisemans accessed with VetAssist’s help. They were also able to access devices like a shower chair and support handle for the bathroom—and, Jimmy’s favorite, a therapeutic massage chair. “Every time I ask for something, they usually give it to me,” says Dorothy.
Thanks to Aid and Attendance, the Wisemans’ life has gotten safer and easier. It’s VetAssist’s privilege to take part in helping amazing veterans like this couple.
When Windstar announced last fall that it would be extending its Mediterranean season to year-round (from spring/summer/autumn), the first thing I wondered was this: How would a cruise in November–early March be different from one during the traditional April–October time frame? How would the new timings materially change the experience?
What I learned, after my recent cruise around the Mediterranean, was that it was equally enjoyable but different. How so? You definitely want to be prepared for the weather (I made the trip with just a carry-on and packed one of anything I could need, such as a sweater, a raincoat, a T-shirt and even a bathing suit). I spent more time in indoor spaces, like museums, restaurants, galleries, food markets and shops, and made some fabulous discoveries that I’d missed on other cruises in the Mediterranean where I’d been more interested in beaches, outdoor cafés and hiking trails. On our visits to Rome, Florence, Nice and Barcelona, the atmosphere was vibrant; we encountered plenty of other travelers but rarely ever a crowd (also rare: other cruise ships!).
Take it from me, an American living in Rome: Winter is the Mediterranean’s secret season.”
Laura Itzkowitz, Conde Nast Traveler
And one key change for cruising at this time of the year is that the itineraries are different. During the Mediterranean spring/summer/fall seasons, the ships tend to call at smaller, more out of the way villages and towns that are basically just open during the mainstream travel season. This time, we spent our time in cities that bustle all year long.
Our weather was mostly quite temperate, yet I do encourage anyone considering a winter cruise to remember that you’ll want to be a bit flexible and a bit adventurous when planning your touring. Some of us onboard even spent time swimming in Star Legend’s pool! And the hot tubs definitely were a boon.
What’s it like to sail around the Mediterranean in winter? Read on.
Coming home
As always, arriving at a Windstar cruise is comforting because, for veterans, you’ll undoubtedly run into amazing crew and staff with whom you’ve already traveled. And if you’re new, it doesn’t take long to warm into the embrace.
Star Legend overnights tonight in Civitavecchia, which as many cruise travelers know (and yet if you’re new-to-cruise, no worries) is about a 1½ hour drive from Rome itself. Rome, like Florence, somewhat unusually for Italy, is a bit far inland to be a true port city. I love that we have an overnight here — and a full day tomorrow — if only because I didn’t have the free time to travel to Rome for a few extra days pre-cruise.
Our trip, should you want to follow along, begins here, moves on to Livorno for Florence (a somewhat similar situation in which Florence itself is inland, as is Lucca and Pisa, other fabulous medieval Tuscan towns that you can access there). After that, the exploration schedule eases a bit. We head to Nice, Marseille and finally Barcelona. We have overnights as well in Nice and Barcelona. And there are no scheduled sea days. It’s going to be a busy cruise.
This trip means so much to me. I have visited all of these amazing cities more than a few times but have not been back since the pandemic. So I can’t wait to share visits to places I’ve loved, and unveil new discoveries, both.
Just a bit of background: I’m a big fan of “relax and absorb.” When we all first visit Rome, the sightseeing list includes the Colosseum, Vatican, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. In Florence you can’t miss the Duomo, and museums like the Uffizi and the Academia. And yet on this trip, I’ve encountered a lot of travelers who have already been to many Mediterranean hotspots. The appeal of this voyage is the more relaxed time of year.
In Rome, I explore favorite, familiar niches and make a new discovery
Rome’s charming neighborhood around the elegant Piazza Farnese/Carolyn Spencer Brown
There were nine of us on the bus bound for the shore excursion “Rome on your own” and I was struck by the fact that everyone onboard had been to Rome before and had very specific ideas on what they were going to do in our destination city. (The other tour offered today was a Vatican-intense experience).
Going to Rome without a plan, whether it’s your first time or multi-time visit, is as crazy as spending a day in Tokyo or Stockholm or Paris. You need a plan. I’ve been to Rome so many times, even had a marriage proposal there, and yet — it’s still overwhelming and there are distances to be covered.
You should allow for time to get lost.
My plan was to revisit neighborhoods that I’ve loved in the past, like the Piazza Navona, Campo De Fiori and Palazzo Farnese, all pretty tightly bunched together in the shadow of the Tiber. I wanted to have a relaxing lunch of Rome’s famed carbonara pasta with a smidge of red wine, and then wander over to the Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps, which is both touristic and utterly fabulous).
Even with some time lost wandering in circles (my memory wasn’t as good as I’d hoped), a few restless moments cursing Google Maps for telling me to go northeast or southwest instead of left or right, and a bonkers recommendation that the best market in town was the seriously touristy one at Campo De Fiori (boy, has that piazza changed since my first visit, when as a callow and poor young traveler, I rented a room at a convent on the square), still, it was a great day. There was a great lunch at a restaurant a block behind Piazza Navona, a café I chose because the strongest scent of garlic wafted out its front door.
Lunching on Rome’s traditional carbonara pasta near Piazza Navona/Carolyn Spencer Brown
My favorite moment — as happens on all great days even if you do plan ahead — was a totally unexpected one, at Rinescenti, Italy’s sort-of fancy department store. This one had been written up by the uber-stylish Wallpaper design magazine, and the thing that intrigued me was its rooftop terrace. It was part of a rather pretentious food hall (selling fancy groceries like 36-euro olive oil flasks for which no info on its value was provided) but wow, the outdoor, rooftop deck offered the most amazing views above the city. You could breathe, rest, reboot, and watch a spectacular storm heading west to east, from the Atlantic to the city itself. And, ironically, on this first week of March, the sun shining on us was really warm (I peeled off a layer of clothes but then layered back up when I got outside, on the street level).
It was nice to meet up with our bus mates for a no-stress trip back to the ship (and a PS, the motorcoach had outlets for charging your devices; just make sure to bring an adapter).
Watching a storm roll in at Rome’s Rinascenti, with its top floor cafe/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Some of our fellow travelers took the train back and forth, and I’ve done that in the past, but opted for the convenience of the “on your own” option and was glad I did. Once we were back onboard, our captain announced that our sail-away would be delayed because a passenger was caught up in a train delay. I thought it was wonderful that the ship waited — but I wouldn’t want to take that chance.
Tonight we sail from Civitavecchia, north to Livorno, which is our gateway to Florence.
Onboard, it feels like we’re traveling in a cocoon
Cozy Cuadro 44 is one of my favorite restaurants on all Windstar yachts/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Star Legend is largely identical to Windstar’s Star Pride and Star Breeze. If you’ve traveled in any of these yachts, you’ll immediately feel at home once you walk up the gangway. I love that I know where my favorite haunts are, that the Yacht Club, the all-day-long coffee bar and deli also serves fresh squeezed orange juice in the morning. There’s the secret hot tub, all the way forward, on deck 5, which you’ll often have all to yourself.
The standard accommodations are all roomy suites, with either picture windows or Juliet balconies, and have the same layout (save for whether the bed is positioned by the window and living room by the door or vice versa). All have the walk-in closet, more movies programmed onto the television network than you’ll have =time to watch, and super comfortable beds with a nautically inspired seating area by the window or the entrance.
Perhaps my favorite moment so far on this trip occurred on our first night, docked at Civitavecchia. I had an early reservation at Cuadro 44, the cozy Spanish restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Anthony Sasso. It’s become one of my favorite restaurants anywhere at sea; the menu is inventive, the crew and staff make you feel so warmly welcome, and the food is just delicious. This time, I discovered a new dish, the fideos mar y montana (toasted angel hair pasta, confit chicken, chorizo and clams) that joins the lamb chops and churros with chocolate sauce in my own personal “Cuadro Hall of Fame.”
So, on this night, the sun had just set, and I was surprised to see, from inside the cozy restaurant, tucked perfectly at a table along the wall, a flash of light. There was a spectacular show going on outside — a humdinger of a thunder and lightning storm with the rain coming down so hard it was blowing sideways. I may have been the only guest at that point in Cuadro 44 but I was by no means alone — the crew and staff joined me to watch the storm. It ended as abruptly as it began.
In Florence, the culinary arts, 20th century fashion and ancient artifacts
Here’s a great overview of Florence we visited on a toilet stop!/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Today, on our second port call on this Mediterranean-all-year-long cruise on Windstar’s Star Legend, could potentially feel a bit like “Groundhog Day” after yesterday’s visit to Rome from Civitavecchia. As excited as I am to be in Italy for the first time since the pandemic, both of these towns are, as mentioned yesterday, some distance inland (luckily, other ports to come, including Nice, Marseille and Barcelona, are within walking distance of the ship).
There was, on this call at Livorno, an option to sign up for a Florence “on your own” excursion, but it was such a new opportunity from Windstar (not listed pre-cruise as a shore ex option on Windstar’s website, for instance) that I was the only one to sign up. I ended up taking the regular Florence tour, the one that visits the Accademia Galleria to see Michelangelo’s statue of David. I figured I’d revisit the masterpiece and then arrange to meet the tour at the end. And in fact, I wasn’t alone there — several other travelers booked on the shore ex were return visitors to Florence and wanted to do their own thing, too. So, I think there’s potential for more offerings for experienced travelers.
The drive from Livorno to Florence was beautiful as we passed through Chianti country before heading up to a lookout point for an absolutely gorgeous toilet-stop (when was the last time you got those four words together in a sentence?).
Bottom line: Florence is, according to Lucia, our guide (and I believe her), one of the most historic of Italy’s many old cities. And if in my mind, visiting Italy’s famous cities now, as opposed to high season’s summer, would be a cakewalk, well, let’s just say that there may not be many cruise ships in the region, but tourists won’t feel lonely, at least in early March.
There’s definitely a great energy around Florence (a lot of school kids, a sprinkling of Asian visitors, independent Americans) but I do wonder if Florence is becoming the “new Venice,” in the sense of rather overpowering crowds around the Uffizi and the Accademia, and then sprawling beyond, that really transform your experience. One huge plus: If you’re on this tour, your guide gets the tickets in advance. Huge advantage.
And, like Rome, if you’re exploring Florence independently, you will want to plan your day, to make sure you get to see everything on your list. On this trip I wanted to explore the city’s Central Market. The ground floor, even during a rather fallow time of year when there’s not so much freshly grown produce (still no asparagus yet, just a bit early) though plenty of seafood, was, as it’s always, fascinating to see what people are buying.
Florence’s Central Market sells the usual foodstuffs and lots of ready made dishes, too/Carolyn Spencer Brown
And if anyone wonders, “Why, as a guest on a Windstar ship, which has amazing food, are you poking around food stalls,” you will understand when they see all the counters of ready-made dishes (and plenty of cafés, too). On this market’s second floor, it was even better than a food court, with all manner of treats, from chicken roasting right in front of you to decadent pastries, wines and beyond. There was even a cute gift shop that sold kitchen and gourmet packaged food (the requisite 36-euro bottles of olive oil were there aplenty). I kept thinking, in my family, where we all have different tastes, Central Market is a great lunch stop: There’s something for everyone.
Another new discovery in Firenze
Florence’s Gucci Garden celebrates the design house’s fashion in a contemporary way/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Another first in this port, which I had visited before, was a trip to the recently remodeled Gucci Garden. Mind you, I’ve never been particularly intrigued by the Florence-based Gucci’s fashion house, but after my morning in the Accademia, I wanted to experience the city’s more recent culture too. Gucci Garden is an elegant complex incorporating the Gucci Osteria, a boutique and bookstore, and a series of multimedia and visually colorful exhibits. What I loved about the experience was mostly its gallery, where you could ogle themed rooms (one on Gucci’s signature loafers through the decades, another with hundreds of handbags, a third that showcased gowns and tuxes as worn by a blend of celebrities throughout different decades). It definitely transported me into a different period of time and reminded me that Florence has more to offer than ancient artifacts.
My last stop — I packed a lot into the five hours I had to explore — was to head across the Ponte Vecchio, admiring the jewelry, to the other side of the Arno River. Here, on an easy stroll, you’ll find the Boboli Gardens and the Pitti Palace, and while it definitely was a gorgeous late winter day to embrace its flora and fauna, I just opted to explore the neighborhood of Santo Spirito. It’s an artistic area that feels both steeped in time and absorbed in the present. And there’s nothing like a soul-satisfying local meal in Il Santo Bevitore, a restaurant that was so focused on locals there wasn’t even a menu in English, to cap off an adventurous day.
Two days in Nice, one of the Mediterranean’s most famous winter getaways
Nice’s old port, with Star Legend docked just behind/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Nice itself is a welcoming cultural city with amazing vistas over its old port and the Promenade des Anglais. Much of its draw has to do with its scalloped harbor and beachfront (even now, people were sunbathing though I didn’t see anyone sea bathing), and for its magnetic appeal for artists like Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall, both of whom are honored with museums. The farmers market in the old city, lined with restaurants and cafés, is a great place to people-watch and eat traditional Niçoise cooking.
Everything was open. One day I took the train to Monte Carlo to meet friends for lunch at an Italian café on the waterside. On our second day, it was all about rather leisurely exploring of Nice itself, walking from our ship in the old port, around the lovely seaside park that rings Castle Hill. The market in the old city was bustling (a good spot for lunch was Jenny’s Café, right across from the flower-seller). I spent an hour in the Musée de la Photographie, just behind the market, which I learned about from this story on culture in the Mediterranean’s winter; it hosts rotating exhibits. On this visit, I was completely absorbed by “The Manhattan Darkroom,” showcasing the work of Henri Dauman, a Frenchman who ultimately chronicled the lives of celebrities in the 1950s and 1960s. Going back in time there reminded me of my visit to the Gucci Garden in Florence, when you just step out of your life for a bit and come back refreshed.
What’s head-spinning about our visit, even with two full days and an overnight, is how many villages and towns there are to explore and, thanks to a fantastic train system (which, from our ship’s dock in the old port, had a station that was quite walkable). Some of us headed out for Monte Carlo (and in fact Windstar offered a “Monte Carlo on your own” tour on our overnight for those who wanted to dress up and gamble at its famous casino). Eze, the medieval town on top of a rock, fronted the sea between Nice and Monte Carlo, and so did the charming beachfront village of Villefranche-sur-Mer. St. Paul de Vence, a medieval village in the foothills of the Alps, is another option; it, like Nice, has long been a magnet for art and artists.
Midway through our cruise, here’s what I’ve learned
A winter sunset admired from the deck 5 forward whirlpool in Nice/Carolyn Spencer Brown
A couple of thoughts re traveling in the Mediterranean (we can’t even call it the “off” season anymore, just year-round), based on learnings on this wonderful trip.
1. Weather is never a guarantee on any cruise, anywhere. The best you can do is pack accordingly to whichever season you’re in (so far, I’ve got most of the right pieces — a couple of T-shirts, leggings, one sweater, one easily foldable raincoat, a dress for dinner with a couple of takes-no-room silky tops, and one pair of evening shoes). I’ll admit that the Dansko leather pair that’s been my primary footwear is killing my feet. I broke down today in Nice and bought a nice pair of Birkenstocks. They’re like butter — though I have to figure where in my carry-on the flesh-stubborn Danskos will go.
2. We’ve had variable weather but on the whole it’s been quite comfortable, 50s and up, and sunny. Our two days in Nice absolutely lived up to expectations. I think my face is sunburned. And yet tomorrow, just down the Riviera, Marseille is getting a huge storm and we’re skipping that port and going straight to Barcelona, so you never know.
3. I have loved this itinerary and its overnights, particularly in Nice and (anticipating) Barcelona, where the ship docks right in town. In Nice, you can spend one day poking around the city — and another trying to decide between forays to Eze or Monte Carlo or St. Paul de Vence. And for do-it-yourselfers, the public transport is so easy!
4. So far, there’s not as much ship time as I normally like on Windstar (I love the ships) because the ports are so interesting! A rainy day could change that, and you could pivot to the spa, and a nice long lunch, and a comfy day watching movies in bed. Just saying …
A change in plans
In early March, a lovely lazy alfresco lunch on Star Legend on the way to Barcelona/Carolyn Spencer Brown
After Nice, we were scheduled to call at Marseille, a wonderful city that celebrates its nautical heritage. As we were sailing out of Nice, Capt. Mark Symonds informs us that we’re going to skip that port and head straight to Barcelona. Obviously, there was disappointment, but Windstar’s tradition of having captains offer detailed explanations of how decisions are made (complete with persuasive visuals) is such a great touch. By the end of his quite thorough presentation, we all were nodding heads in agreement.
Instead of Marseille, we had half a sea day (which was a real pleasure on this otherwise very port-intensive voyage), and I hightailed it to the spa for a massage and some time in the relaxation room. Oddly enough, since the storm wasn’t all that far from us, skies were sunny, and the sea was calm. And travelers did what they do on a nice day at sea — solving puzzles in the Yacht Club, swimming and sunbathing by the pool, taking restorative naps.
We didn’t have as much “free” time as we anticipated, alas.
Cruises always seem to start off nice and slow, then finish way too fast
An unexpected afternoon in Barcelona’s Port Vell, a lovely waterfront neighborhood just steps from our ship/Carolyn Spencer Brown
When you think about a cruise around the Mediterranean, at any time of the year, weather is always a factor in how you spend your day. On this voyage, the first season of winter cruises that Windstar has offered, we’ve had great luck: Almost every day has been picture-perfect. And yet I’d argue that it’s how you pivot based on atmospheric influences (laughing) that makes a travel experience a wonderful one. In fact, those of us on Star Legend this week finally got our come-uppance.
When we docked, right in town, Barcelona was sunny and warm but here we could see traces of the weather en route to Marseille; scudding clouds were moving away and the pavements were damp.
I’ve been in Barcelona so many times and one thing I have never done, and have wanted to, was to ride the Montjuic aerial tram. This afternoon would have been perfect, but I got busy and it didn’t happen, and I’m thinking, tomorrow, Saturday, our last full day onboard, is another opportunity.
Making a Pivot
Belly up to the bar at Barcelona’s Boqueria and have a fresh snack/Carolyn Spencer Brown
And yet, Saturday, at dawn, it rained so hard it blew sideways. Not a great day for Montjuic, for sure. There were two options: an onboard day, reading, relaxing, watching movies, playing puzzles in the Yacht Club, and perhaps another foray to the spa. Or: bundling up, as I was prepared to do, and diving into Barcelona’s famous Mercado, its Boqueria, its food market. I’ve been before, on fleeting visits. This time, I wandered around leisurely and absorbed the market more fully than I might have done on a sunny day.
For sure, it’s a touristic market. I would recommend that you start off by taking a lap around the food stalls and then hitching up on a bar stool at one of the handful of cafés that offer freshly prepared seafood and nice pours of whatever you drink (coffee machines were busy, so too were pours of San Miguel beers and simple Spanish wines). The people around you will likely be Americans (at least on this day, even in early March) and the rain is beating down so hard on the Boqueria’s metal roof that the whole place thrums, and it’s cozy and warm and delicious to be here.
Here, I met Tim, from Charleston, South Carolina, whose platters of shrimp and sardines and his glass of rose were his “good night” snacks (he’d partied all night and was heading back to his hotel). I opted for a breakfast of fried calamari, in which the cook plucked the fresh squid just in front of me and threw it into the fryer. The people-watching was so much fun.
And then I went shopping. You can buy fabulous souvenirs (salts and oils to take home and I didn’t spot any of the ridiculous 36-euro carafes of olive oil that were all over Rome and Tuscany), and also wonderful pastries (see photo, in which one baker, working below the market, created delicious sweets. The lemon pie was the best ever). Just follow your nose, garlic in one direction, sugar in another.
These days, I love to bring back gifts like unusual olive oils, teas, and other foodstuffs/Carolyn Spencer Brown
Afterward, missing Star Legend and knowing I’m leaving tomorrow morning, I headed back to the ship for a late lunch. It felt like I was coming home. In my so-comfortable suite, I started organizing my belongings, packing a bag. I hated to think about leaving. I just didn’t want this trip to end and wished I’d planned for a back-to-back that would take me around the Mediterranean back to Rome. Feeling indulgent, I ordered room service lunch (great burger, the first of the trip), switched on the television, and began watching “Roman Holiday,” with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
It was the best possible pivot on a rainy day.
If you go:
This quote from Rome-based Laura Itzkowitz, in her story about why cruising in the Mediterranean during winter is a special experience, first intrigued me to check out the possibilities: “Take it from me, an American living in Rome: Winter is the Mediterranean’s secret season.” Last winter, I added coastal Spain to my other “locals season” voyages from Rome to Barcelona and from Venice to Rome.
On a January visit to Venice, well after the festivities of Christmas and the new year, and before the annual celebration of Mardi Gras. I added a four day pre-cruise stay. What did I discover about Venice in “locals” season?
